When Anna Sui was four years old, Anna Sui was already talking about becoming a designer. “I’m not exactly sure where I got that notion. It was probably something I saw on television. I always had it in mind that a designer had beautiful fabrics around her, and a big sketchbook, and would drape cloth around a mannequin, and go out to lunch. It seemed like a very glamorous life.”
Anna Sui always went fabric shopping with her mom. Anna Sui watched her sew and would take the scraps and make doll clothes. Once she understood how patterns worked, she started making her own clothes.
Anna Sui remembers reading an article in Life Magazine about two girls who graduated from Parsons School of Design in New York and then moved to Paris, where Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton opened a boutique for them. “As a kid, you think “wow”, you’ve found the magic ticket…all you have to do was move to New York and go to Parsons. Years later when I went back and re-read that article; I realized that one of the girl’s fathers was the legendary photographer, Irving Penn (which might have given them certain advantages!)”
Anna Sui did go to Parsons. In her second year, she overheard two seniors talking about a job opportunity at “Charlie’s Girls” with Erica Elias. Anna Sui ran up there with her student portfolio, and got the job. “That was probably the best job I could have ever landed because Erica gave me my very own design room to work in. I had sewing ladies. I had a draper. They had five different divisions where I could do swimwear, sportswear and sweaters. I learned how to do everything. She was a very tough boss but without that experience, I don’t think I could ever have had the same opportunities that I later enjoyed. When Charlie’s Girls closed, Erica’s name still opened doors for me at many of the other big sportswear houses.”
In 1981, Anna Sui had the idea of doing her own clothing line but didn’t really know how to go about it. Anna Sui had some friends who made jewelry and were going to try to sell it at a trade show. Anna Sui made five pieces of clothing and they asked her to share a booth with them. To her delight, she got orders from Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s (and was featured in an advertisement in The New York Times)! At the time, Anna Sui was working for a company called Glenora. The man who owned the company saw the ad and said: “Is this girl on our payroll? Why does she have an ad in the Times?” He said if she didn’t stop, he would fire her. So Anna Sui got fired.
That’s how Anna Sui started her own business. Anna Sui had a loft-like apartment, so she worked out of a little corner of her living room…but it eventually took over. One morning she woke up, opened the door from her bedroom. There were boxes everywhere, racks everywhere…and she thought, “Okay, I have to find a space. I can’t live like this anymore.” So she rented half a floor on 39th Street and moved her office there.
In 1990, Anna Sui had been in business for ten years. “Until then, I never imagined attempting to stage an actual fashion show. All my friends at the time worked in fashion. They included: photographer Steven Meisel, editor Paul Cavaco, hairdresser Garren and make-up artist Francois Nars…along with the most popular models of the time- Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington. My apartment was like “clubhouse central”. Everyone would come over. We would hang out. Birthday parties were always at my house. We all knew each other really well.”
Anna Sui’s friends got together to encourage her that it was the right time for her to take the plunge and consider producing a show. This was at the height of 1980’s “power-dressing” companies like Chanel, Lacroix and Versace. Competing against them seemed like the scariest thing Anna Sui had ever done. She felt like she had to find her own voice and present her sensibility in a staging that would stand-up next to other big-name fashion houses.
Anna Sui’s first show for fall 1991 was one of the giant breakthroughs of hery career. She suddenly started getting a lot of press notice internationally. It was a case of being in the “right place at the right time”. All the Japanese stores were coming to New York looking for American designers to develop distribution deals with. Anna Sui started getting a lot of offers. The company that she finally chose was: Isetan. It has been the most amazing partnership for her. Isetan made her collection so famous in Asia. They opened freestanding Anna Sui boutiques in Japan. Anna Sui also got 12 licenses, including a cosmetic line. And the German company, Wella (now P&G) asked to develop perfume with her. That’s really what made Anna Sui a global brand.
“I give my parents a lot of credit for my success. My father was a structural engineer and my mother studied painting. They met when they were both students in Paris. I get the business side from my father and the artistic side from my mother. After they married, they traveled throughout Europe for three years and finally settled in the U.S. My father continued studies at the University of Michigan. I was born in Detroit.”
Growing up and learning about Chinese culture from her parents, and hearing them talk about all the different places they had lived…prepared Anna Sui for thinking globally. This perspective took away any fears of being able to function in a foreign country. “Their experiences were a gift to me.”
Anna Sui’s biggest problem was always money. Starting with $300 is not a good business plan. She has always had to do extra design jobs just to keep my company going for the first 10 years. Anna Sui reinvested every penny she made back into the business. “There were times after I paid my employees that I didn’t even have enough money for a subway token, and I would have to walk to my office in the Garment Center.” In those early years, Anna Sui was often offered magazine editing positions, but had to remain steadfast about being a fashion designer. Anna Sui wanted my own thing, and resisted anything that would take her off that path. You have to have an incredible focus. “That is one of the big keys to success. There are sacrifices and tradeoffs that you have to make along the way. But you have to decide for yourself what’s more important.”
Anna Sui is a very realistic designer. She understands that there’s a big difference between a fashion show and the actual product that a consumer buys. In her own store, she sees what women want. “I hear what they’re asking for. On the runway, I’ll do crazy styling and crazy accessories, but there’s always a beautiful dress or a great shirt underneath. One of the biggest compliments is when someone tells me, “I have a dress I bought from you 10 years ago- and every time I wear it, my husband tells me look beautiful.” You can’t ask for more.”
People are attracted to Anna Sui’s fashions because of all the elements she tries to put into it — There’s always a very sweet feminine, girly aspect…a touch of nostalgia. There’s also the aspect of trendiness; the hipness Anna Sui tries to create by always adding a rock-and-roll coolness. There’s always that ambiguity…the Good Girl/Bad Girl thing. All these facets have to go into her designs, or it doesn’t look like “Anna Sui”. Every product she puts her name on has to personify the “World of Anna Sui”. “When a customer buys a tube of lipstick, it should give them the same excitement as buying a dress from my collection. If it doesn’t, then I’m not really doing my job.”